Tuesday, January 06, 2009
Adjusting the front derailleur
Now the chain is on the fine tuning of the front dérailleur can be completed. It normally only needs a little tweak to set these end stops. Here I didn't need to do anything as it was right on the ball.
Just spun the cog and checked the gears changed OK.
As it is otherwise another step completed it is a good enough excuse to have a beer though.
Just spun the cog and checked the gears changed OK.
As it is otherwise another step completed it is a good enough excuse to have a beer though.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Monday, January 05, 2009
Seat
Here's a seat post clamp. I don't like quick-release seat-post clamps as they're only helpful to thieves who want to steal your seat.
De-bagged! There is a little lip on the inside so it will only go on the seat tube one way up.
A little anti-stick paste wiped on the inside and on the seat-tube it goes.
But now realise I have no seat. Hmm. Have to think about what to do here. Shall have a beer.
De-bagged! There is a little lip on the inside so it will only go on the seat tube one way up.
A little anti-stick paste wiped on the inside and on the seat-tube it goes.
But now realise I have no seat. Hmm. Have to think about what to do here. Shall have a beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Sunday, January 04, 2009
Install the chain
A nice SRAM 9 speed chain - PC981
Just lay it across the front, remembering to feed it through the front dérailleur.
Lay it across the back and feed it through the rear dérailleur.
The magic link. I like magic links as I like to take my chain off quite often and clean it in a wax bath.
The chain is not seated right as the dérailleur needs a little fine adjustment.
And there we have it.
Another beer is called for now.
Just lay it across the front, remembering to feed it through the front dérailleur.
Lay it across the back and feed it through the rear dérailleur.
The magic link. I like magic links as I like to take my chain off quite often and clean it in a wax bath.
The chain is not seated right as the dérailleur needs a little fine adjustment.
And there we have it.
Another beer is called for now.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Saturday, January 03, 2009
Put the tires on
Here's a couple of spare inner tubes that have been laying about for longer than I care to remember. They were part of prizes at races ages ago, and I can't remember why they've not been used.
And a couple of spiked tires will be perfect for riding on the ice.
Oh dear, now I know why the first tube hasn't been used, and hence languishing at the back of the shelf for so long. The valve is some wierdness for a very deep rim and doesn't have a thread for a nut to hold it in place. Oops, that's not good.
Oh dear, now I know why the second tube hasn't been used, and hence languishing at the back of the shelf for so long. It's a schrader valve, and hence way too big for the hole in the rims of any wheels I have.
Right, now I know why they were prizes, they were boobie prizes! I do hope the thought of my reaction on opening the boxes made them happy. So those two tubes have gone to the charity shop, no doubt to entertain someone else in the near future. I've no use for them. Now well, I'll just have to go and get a pair of tubes from the stock I keep for my racing bikes. These Bontrager are sweet tubes. I forget who actually manufactures them.
A little air in them to make sure they fit, and don't already have a puncture. The valve stem looks a little short, but it's just because the tube is sat above the rim. I hope.
Fit the tires.
Pump them up a little harder than what I use for racing.
See the valve comes through now.
And onto the bike go the wheels.
Looks even more like a bicyce now.
Time for a beer.
And a couple of spiked tires will be perfect for riding on the ice.
Oh dear, now I know why the first tube hasn't been used, and hence languishing at the back of the shelf for so long. The valve is some wierdness for a very deep rim and doesn't have a thread for a nut to hold it in place. Oops, that's not good.
Oh dear, now I know why the second tube hasn't been used, and hence languishing at the back of the shelf for so long. It's a schrader valve, and hence way too big for the hole in the rims of any wheels I have.
Right, now I know why they were prizes, they were boobie prizes! I do hope the thought of my reaction on opening the boxes made them happy. So those two tubes have gone to the charity shop, no doubt to entertain someone else in the near future. I've no use for them. Now well, I'll just have to go and get a pair of tubes from the stock I keep for my racing bikes. These Bontrager are sweet tubes. I forget who actually manufactures them.
A little air in them to make sure they fit, and don't already have a puncture. The valve stem looks a little short, but it's just because the tube is sat above the rim. I hope.
Fit the tires.
Pump them up a little harder than what I use for racing.
See the valve comes through now.
And onto the bike go the wheels.
Looks even more like a bicyce now.
Time for a beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Wiring up the rear derailleur
Neatly trim the outer shield leaving approximately 10mm showing
Thread on the sealing bellows
Thread around to the attaching screw. Use the 'third hand' to pull it all taught.
At full pull, set the limit screw.
So easy, I wonder if I even deserve a beer for that. I'll have one whilst I think about it.
Thread on the sealing bellows
Thread around to the attaching screw. Use the 'third hand' to pull it all taught.
At full pull, set the limit screw.
So easy, I wonder if I even deserve a beer for that. I'll have one whilst I think about it.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Handlebar grips
As the brake housings are blue I sourced some blue handlebar grips.
The smallest touch of liquid soap is enough to help slip them on. I like them to twist a little under my hands. Some people hate it, and if you do, you're better using a little alcohol instead of soap. I push them far enough on so there is a little bit of tube showing at the end. I shall be putting bar ends on later, if I can find some nice blue ones.
It's looking so good, I think I'll have a beer.
The smallest touch of liquid soap is enough to help slip them on. I like them to twist a little under my hands. Some people hate it, and if you do, you're better using a little alcohol instead of soap. I push them far enough on so there is a little bit of tube showing at the end. I shall be putting bar ends on later, if I can find some nice blue ones.
It's looking so good, I think I'll have a beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Wiring up the front derailleur
Out comes the front dérailleur packing spacer.
Tug the cable taught, measure up and, with a sharp knife, cut off the excess cover.
Remember to have the 'third hand' to hand, so to speak.
On with the shield bellows and thread through the stop screw.
Check, using the trigger-shifter that everything works. Then torque up.
Whilst holding a beer in the other hand of course.
Tug the cable taught, measure up and, with a sharp knife, cut off the excess cover.
Remember to have the 'third hand' to hand, so to speak.
On with the shield bellows and thread through the stop screw.
Check, using the trigger-shifter that everything works. Then torque up.
Whilst holding a beer in the other hand of course.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Monday, December 15, 2008
Routing rear derailleur cable
Routing the rear derailleur was a little more complicated than the front.
The end stops were slightly too narrow for either variety of ferule that came with the cables. I could drill out the end-stops to slightly widen them, but I dislike modding a frame unless it is absolutely unavoidable. So it was a case of hunting through spare parts to find some that fitted, and looked correct. Yes, I managed to locate some.
Whilst I was at it, I corrected the orientation of the cable guide for the front derailleur so the text was the correct way up.
Whilst I was at it, I lined the ferules up, so the text was apparent there too. It's all the little finishing touches that go to make a bike feel good.
The ferules were so tight they stay in place all on their own!
Shall I have a beer, or finish off here? Do I absolutely need both hands for the last bit? Well, I'll have a beer and ponder on it.
The end stops were slightly too narrow for either variety of ferule that came with the cables. I could drill out the end-stops to slightly widen them, but I dislike modding a frame unless it is absolutely unavoidable. So it was a case of hunting through spare parts to find some that fitted, and looked correct. Yes, I managed to locate some.
Whilst I was at it, I corrected the orientation of the cable guide for the front derailleur so the text was the correct way up.
Whilst I was at it, I lined the ferules up, so the text was apparent there too. It's all the little finishing touches that go to make a bike feel good.
The ferules were so tight they stay in place all on their own!
Shall I have a beer, or finish off here? Do I absolutely need both hands for the last bit? Well, I'll have a beer and ponder on it.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Beer
Getting ready for the next step in my bicycle build and what do I spy?
What? Nearly out of beer!
Oh dear, better send out for some more.
What? Nearly out of beer!
Oh dear, better send out for some more.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling, fun, joke
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Replacing the wire on a SRAM XO rear trigger shifter
The front trigger shift looks a little different to the rear. That is because the two I have are not really a pair. The design has altered over the years, and they come from different sets. I would like to think the front trigger shifter (that I changed the wire on in an earlier post) is a more modern design. It is easier to work on that one than this design, but I don't know.
Yet, lucky for you if you've surfed in looking for instructions on how to replace this cable, as you can find descriptions for both types here.
As before the little thumb-screw on the back is easy to remove, and you can then take the back off.
This looks like fun, not. I have to unthread the wire without disturbing this spring too much. Definitely do not want to bend the spring. That leads to pain.
A little gentle pressure and pushing the spring out of the way and the cable starts to unthread. Once I've removed this cable I wind it up and throw it in the 'spare parts to be given away' bin. I've mentioned previously I dislike the open system. I much prefered a sealed system.
Now inserting the new cable is fun. It has to thread through a small hole which has little guidance and doesn't line up nicely. A little screwdriver I long since modified for this specific task. Notice the rounded off edges. We do not want anything getting scratched or notched in here. These parts are right on the limit for design and any damage will make itself readily apparent when you're right at a very important part of a race.
Pull the cable through. Now just before the end stop is due to arrive, gently push the spring out of the way and lift the end-stop over the lip and up to the face.
On goes the back and, screwsin with the thumb screw.
Done, and I believe a beer is in order.
Yet, lucky for you if you've surfed in looking for instructions on how to replace this cable, as you can find descriptions for both types here.
As before the little thumb-screw on the back is easy to remove, and you can then take the back off.
This looks like fun, not. I have to unthread the wire without disturbing this spring too much. Definitely do not want to bend the spring. That leads to pain.
A little gentle pressure and pushing the spring out of the way and the cable starts to unthread. Once I've removed this cable I wind it up and throw it in the 'spare parts to be given away' bin. I've mentioned previously I dislike the open system. I much prefered a sealed system.
Now inserting the new cable is fun. It has to thread through a small hole which has little guidance and doesn't line up nicely. A little screwdriver I long since modified for this specific task. Notice the rounded off edges. We do not want anything getting scratched or notched in here. These parts are right on the limit for design and any damage will make itself readily apparent when you're right at a very important part of a race.
Pull the cable through. Now just before the end stop is due to arrive, gently push the spring out of the way and lift the end-stop over the lip and up to the face.
On goes the back and, screwsin with the thumb screw.
Done, and I believe a beer is in order.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Routing front derailleur cable
Just noticed, this is the wrong way up. Shall fix that later, when 'finishing' the bike.
Where did I leave my beer?
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Replacing the wire on a SRAM XO front trigger shifter
Here's a spare trigger shifter I'm going to use. How come I had a spare? Well, in a race I broke one, just with my thumb pressure. It's surprising how strong you can get when racing. Sent it to be repaired, but had another race the next week. No one had any single trigger shifters in stock, so I had to buy a pair. Hence I ended up with this one as a left over. The broken one was replaced, but not after several months had passed, but more on that, and the consequences, in a later post.
I really dislike the stock wire on these SRAM XO trigger shifters. I guess it is OK for deserts or places where it isn't so dirty, but I race in gloopy horrid mud nearly everytime, and icy gloopy horrid mud is even more prone to jamming stuff up. So I'm going to replace it, before fitting to the bike.
So I undo this screw on the back.
This is the make of cable system I'm going to use. Gore Ride On. It is a sealed low friction system. It is without doubt the best there is, by a long way.
Like many things at this level of bicycle component, the box is a true beauty. Yet, it must be opened, it must be emptied, and eventually it even has to be thrown away.
So the screw is out, and the back should just pop off.
You can now push the wire backwards out.
Unravel the new wire. Try not to kink it. I don't, this picture is just for effect.
Find which end of the new cable has the correct sized rivet, i.e. the one that is the same size.
Double check it. Triple check it.
And check again before cutting off the other one.
The removed cable is rolled up. I give these away at race meets if I see someone who needs a new one. I don't use them, but that's no reason to waste it.
New cable is threaded in.
Make sure the rivet seats nicely.
And reassemble the shifter.
Actually quite stressful, everytime. If one makes a mistake, it can be expensive. So I recon I deserve a beer after that.
I really dislike the stock wire on these SRAM XO trigger shifters. I guess it is OK for deserts or places where it isn't so dirty, but I race in gloopy horrid mud nearly everytime, and icy gloopy horrid mud is even more prone to jamming stuff up. So I'm going to replace it, before fitting to the bike.
So I undo this screw on the back.
This is the make of cable system I'm going to use. Gore Ride On. It is a sealed low friction system. It is without doubt the best there is, by a long way.
Like many things at this level of bicycle component, the box is a true beauty. Yet, it must be opened, it must be emptied, and eventually it even has to be thrown away.
So the screw is out, and the back should just pop off.
You can now push the wire backwards out.
Unravel the new wire. Try not to kink it. I don't, this picture is just for effect.
Find which end of the new cable has the correct sized rivet, i.e. the one that is the same size.
Double check it. Triple check it.
And check again before cutting off the other one.
The removed cable is rolled up. I give these away at race meets if I see someone who needs a new one. I don't use them, but that's no reason to waste it.
New cable is threaded in.
Make sure the rivet seats nicely.
And reassemble the shifter.
Actually quite stressful, everytime. If one makes a mistake, it can be expensive. So I recon I deserve a beer after that.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Monday, December 08, 2008
Initial setup of front derailleur
The gap from the top of the teeth to the bottom of the dérailleur should be between 1mm and 3mm. Obviously they should be parallel to each other.
With an appropriate screwdriver move the H (high) to make the gap line up with the outer ring when you pull at it.
There's a little plastic jobby the comes-with to stop the beasties spring pulling the lot over the inner ring. It is really helpful so I leave it in to do the high ring.
This white plastic thingy.
I take it out to adjust the L (low) screw.
Sorry, didn't take a picture of that, as my hand was otherwise occupied holding a beer.
With an appropriate screwdriver move the H (high) to make the gap line up with the outer ring when you pull at it.
There's a little plastic jobby the comes-with to stop the beasties spring pulling the lot over the inner ring. It is really helpful so I leave it in to do the high ring.
This white plastic thingy.
I take it out to adjust the L (low) screw.
Sorry, didn't take a picture of that, as my hand was otherwise occupied holding a beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Sunday, December 07, 2008
Routing rear hydraulic hose
A bag of bits to hold the rear brake hydraulic hose to the frame.
And one fits.
And so does another.
Out come the calliper protectors.
Time to put the wheels back on, or have a beer?
And one fits.
And so does another.
Out come the calliper protectors.
Time to put the wheels back on, or have a beer?
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Saturday, December 06, 2008
Brake calipers and levers
Twist the bike around so I can get to the front easily. On with the levers. Run the hydraulic hose and callipers in the correct general direction to make sure they will reach.
The lever will end up pointing in the right direction eventually. I hope.
Rear just hanging there.
And the front calliper is here...
Check the instructions for the torque settings.
And on it goes. The red part is a little shield for transport, so need to put these to one side for safe keeping.
The lever will end up pointing in the right direction eventually. I hope.
Rear just hanging there.
And the front calliper is here...
Check the instructions for the torque settings.
And on it goes. The red part is a little shield for transport, so need to put these to one side for safe keeping.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Friday, December 05, 2008
Jylebryg
Rather busy day today, so I shall only post a picture of the beer being drunk to help lubricate the assembly of this bicycle.
Looks like it is disappearing fast, so more is sent for.
Looks like it is disappearing fast, so more is sent for.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling, fun, joke
Thursday, December 04, 2008
Brake disks fitted to the wheels
Now to the brakes. One set is in a nice presentation box. Which'll be thrown away. Ever such a nice box though. Think I'll try and find a use for it.
So I throw away the extraneous packaging to see what there is.
Get the instructions out and read them thoroughly. These are the brakes and it is important that they stop me every-time I want them to, and not stop me when I least expect it.
Off come the wheels to install the disks.
On this type of wheel you can use two varieties of disk brake disk-mount, and rim brakes. There is a dust cover to cover where the disk-mount adapter fits for the case where you'd use rim brakes. So off it comes and is thrown away.
On goes the IS or 6 bolt adapter. Looks to stand a little proud, needs pressing in, but not much pressure required, just thumbs.
Make sure it is seated all the way down.
Where's the lock nut gone?
On it goes, just finger tight for now. Put the disk on and ensure the arrow points in the direction of rotation for the wheel. Then install the disk and screw the six bolts in.
When I'm happy everything is correct I torque it all up.
Time for a relaxing beer.
So I throw away the extraneous packaging to see what there is.
Get the instructions out and read them thoroughly. These are the brakes and it is important that they stop me every-time I want them to, and not stop me when I least expect it.
Off come the wheels to install the disks.
On this type of wheel you can use two varieties of disk brake disk-mount, and rim brakes. There is a dust cover to cover where the disk-mount adapter fits for the case where you'd use rim brakes. So off it comes and is thrown away.
On goes the IS or 6 bolt adapter. Looks to stand a little proud, needs pressing in, but not much pressure required, just thumbs.
Make sure it is seated all the way down.
Where's the lock nut gone?
On it goes, just finger tight for now. Put the disk on and ensure the arrow points in the direction of rotation for the wheel. Then install the disk and screw the six bolts in.
When I'm happy everything is correct I torque it all up.
Time for a relaxing beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Wednesday, December 03, 2008
Front disk brake mount
This is the front disk brake mount.
It fits on the bottom of the left-hand-side fork-leg. It is where the front brake caliper attaches.
It will not go on smoothly.
Twist the bike around so I can get a good look at it.
Yes, it looks like a really tight fit.
Give it a good shove, and nothing happens.
Time for a rubber mallet. And remember to take the bolts out completely as we don't want to go damaging any threads here.
A good whack and doesn't look like it moved by much, but it is on as far as it will go now.
Best have a beer whilst I contemplate what might be the problem here.
It fits on the bottom of the left-hand-side fork-leg. It is where the front brake caliper attaches.
It will not go on smoothly.
Twist the bike around so I can get a good look at it.
Yes, it looks like a really tight fit.
Give it a good shove, and nothing happens.
Time for a rubber mallet. And remember to take the bolts out completely as we don't want to go damaging any threads here.
A good whack and doesn't look like it moved by much, but it is on as far as it will go now.
Best have a beer whilst I contemplate what might be the problem here.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Tuesday, December 02, 2008
On with the handlebars
There's not a great deal to say about handlebars normally, but these are manufactured from carbon composite. With such a material you have to be quite careful, remember it is not metal, it reacts more like wood. The key thing to remember: the torque wrench is your friend.
Now the handlebars are on, I can put a restraint on the bars to stop the front end flapping about when I'm twisting and turning the bike around during the next steps of the build.
I fancy another beer.
Now the handlebars are on, I can put a restraint on the bars to stop the front end flapping about when I'm twisting and turning the bike around during the next steps of the build.
I fancy another beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Monday, December 01, 2008
Installing the stem
I don't know what stem length I will like on this bike. So initially I'm going to use a variable angle stem until I'm happy with the set-up, then I'll swap it for a lighter fixed one. This is my initial guess of the set up angle.
It slides onto the top of the fork with no difficulty.
Measure how much headtube is sticking out, and find a spacer just a little bigger. This design of fork doesn't use a star-fangled nut, there is a threaded hole internally, so no installation of one of them to show you.
Put the headset spacer in and then screw down the headset cap. Just before it is tight check the stem is lined up correctly.
Now tighten up the stem bolts. This design has one on either side, it is more usual that they are both on the same side, but alternate, as in this design, allows this stem to be inverted and not look out of place.
I would put the handlebars on now, but I fancy a beer.
It slides onto the top of the fork with no difficulty.
Measure how much headtube is sticking out, and find a spacer just a little bigger. This design of fork doesn't use a star-fangled nut, there is a threaded hole internally, so no installation of one of them to show you.
Put the headset spacer in and then screw down the headset cap. Just before it is tight check the stem is lined up correctly.
Now tighten up the stem bolts. This design has one on either side, it is more usual that they are both on the same side, but alternate, as in this design, allows this stem to be inverted and not look out of place.
I would put the handlebars on now, but I fancy a beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Sunday, November 30, 2008
Rear cassette onto the rear wheel
This is the rear cassette I shall be using. It looks like a really heavy lump of metal, but in fact it is nice and light. It is mostly hollow inside, with what looks like the edges of a pyramid holding the cogs in position. Also as you can see in the picture, there are lots of little holes drilled in the cogs themselves to make it even lighter.
So off the bike comes the rear wheel, and onto the freewheel this cassette slides. These can be a bit of a pain to fit if you've not done it before as, although the splines look regular, they aren't, this is to ensure the whole arrangement only goes on in one way. There is a special tool to torque up the lock nut, and it is tempting to just grab the wheel when doing this, but one should use a chain whip on the cassette, otherwise you're damaging the freewheel and possibly taking you wheel out of true.
Shall I put the chain on now?
Nah, time for a beer.
So off the bike comes the rear wheel, and onto the freewheel this cassette slides. These can be a bit of a pain to fit if you've not done it before as, although the splines look regular, they aren't, this is to ensure the whole arrangement only goes on in one way. There is a special tool to torque up the lock nut, and it is tempting to just grab the wheel when doing this, but one should use a chain whip on the cassette, otherwise you're damaging the freewheel and possibly taking you wheel out of true.
Shall I put the chain on now?
Nah, time for a beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Wheels and rim-tape
I open the delivery box with the wheels in and see what parts come with, and what I need that is missing. Rim-tape is missing. Rim-tape forms a barrier between the inner tube and the inside of the rim. If there was no rim tape the tube would press through the holes in the rims onto the spoke nipples or the tips of the spokes themselves, (if they protrude through the nipples,) these and the holes themselves are sharp and will puncture the tube in use.
Found some rim tape. I like plastic rim tape as the bicycle wheels will get quite a bit of water in them and cloth tape just rots, fails to protect the inner-tube and then you get a puncture that is unrepairable in the field.
There is a knack to installing rim-tape such as this as it is quite tight to get on. You first put a screwdriver through the valve hole in the rim-tape, and through the valve hole in the wheel. This ensures they start off more or less aligned. You then put another screwdriver on the rim and run it around to get the tape on. It is tricky and it feels like the tape will snap just before you get it all on, but it shouldn't. Now just before it is all on let the first screwdriver drop away, if it hasn't already, and get the tape all on the rim. Now the holes in the tape and the rim won't quite line up anymore, not to worry, just roll the screwdriver backwards and forwards and you'll see the holes come into alignment. When they're aligned, then take the screwdriver out.
Put the front wheel on.
And the back.
Looks more like a bicycle now.
Looks like a bike from this direction too!
Lots more parts to go on yet, so I'll have a beer as I decide what to do next.
Found some rim tape. I like plastic rim tape as the bicycle wheels will get quite a bit of water in them and cloth tape just rots, fails to protect the inner-tube and then you get a puncture that is unrepairable in the field.
There is a knack to installing rim-tape such as this as it is quite tight to get on. You first put a screwdriver through the valve hole in the rim-tape, and through the valve hole in the wheel. This ensures they start off more or less aligned. You then put another screwdriver on the rim and run it around to get the tape on. It is tricky and it feels like the tape will snap just before you get it all on, but it shouldn't. Now just before it is all on let the first screwdriver drop away, if it hasn't already, and get the tape all on the rim. Now the holes in the tape and the rim won't quite line up anymore, not to worry, just roll the screwdriver backwards and forwards and you'll see the holes come into alignment. When they're aligned, then take the screwdriver out.
Put the front wheel on.
And the back.
Looks more like a bicycle now.
Looks like a bike from this direction too!
Lots more parts to go on yet, so I'll have a beer as I decide what to do next.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Friday, November 28, 2008
Installing the front derailleur
This is the front derailleur in it's box. I check first before opening the box to see if this one is the correct type. I need to see the key statements: "top-pull" and "31.8mm" written on the side. The down tube is 31.8 mm diameter, if the derailleur is narrower than this it won't go around the tube, and if it is wider then it won't grip. It needs to be top pull as that is the direction the control cable will pull from. This can be seen from the frame as there is a cable stop near the top of the seat tube.
I shall read the instructions this time, as I am not 100% sure on what the spacing should be from the large chain ring to the unit. Also it tells me how tight to torque up the retaining bolt.
And there it is. Notice the lump of creamy-white plastic inside the derailleur, it helps to put something like that in whilst setting it up, otherwise the derailleur cage sits over the smallest chain-ring and it is hard to set the clearance to the large chain-ring.
Well, that was so easy I think it deserves a beer.
I shall read the instructions this time, as I am not 100% sure on what the spacing should be from the large chain ring to the unit. Also it tells me how tight to torque up the retaining bolt.
And there it is. Notice the lump of creamy-white plastic inside the derailleur, it helps to put something like that in whilst setting it up, otherwise the derailleur cage sits over the smallest chain-ring and it is hard to set the clearance to the large chain-ring.
Well, that was so easy I think it deserves a beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Installing the rear derailleur
Bored with working at the front, now I shall do something to the rear of the bike. The black piece is a plastic spacer to prevent frame damage during delivery. I keep hold of things like this for when I transport my bikes anywhere and they don't have a wheel installed. Helps prevent damage from bending the frame due to over enthusiastic piling up of kit on top. The part furthest away is where the rear disc brake calliper screws on, and this side has the hanger where the rear dérailleur is fitted.
The rear derailleur screws into this hole here, on the hanger. Suppose it is called the hanger as it hangs down. If you look carefully it looks a little like a comma, the little 'tick' is a stop for a part on the derailleur that is used as a thrust plate to resist the twisting motion imparted when one tensions the cable to change gear. So it is important that the stop goes on the correct side, although it is usually difficult to get it wrong. On some derailleurs there is no plate, just a bolt. In that case the blot pushes against this tick.
Goes on really easy. I just screw the derailleur hanger bolt into the hanger. I check several times to make sure it is correct as it went on way too easy. Then I torque the hanger bolt up as per the instructions.
I prefer the SRAM system for the rear derailleur as they use a parallelogram arrangement for moving across the cassette, this ensures the cage can never contact the cassette. On other systems they rely on the chain tension to pull the cage down. When a MTB gets really dirty in a race you can forget about chain tension doing anything like when you set the bike up, so I don't bother with anything less.
Reckon it is time for another beer.
The rear derailleur screws into this hole here, on the hanger. Suppose it is called the hanger as it hangs down. If you look carefully it looks a little like a comma, the little 'tick' is a stop for a part on the derailleur that is used as a thrust plate to resist the twisting motion imparted when one tensions the cable to change gear. So it is important that the stop goes on the correct side, although it is usually difficult to get it wrong. On some derailleurs there is no plate, just a bolt. In that case the blot pushes against this tick.
Goes on really easy. I just screw the derailleur hanger bolt into the hanger. I check several times to make sure it is correct as it went on way too easy. Then I torque the hanger bolt up as per the instructions.
I prefer the SRAM system for the rear derailleur as they use a parallelogram arrangement for moving across the cassette, this ensures the cage can never contact the cassette. On other systems they rely on the chain tension to pull the cage down. When a MTB gets really dirty in a race you can forget about chain tension doing anything like when you set the bike up, so I don't bother with anything less.
Reckon it is time for another beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Installing the chainset
This part is big and has lots of teeth on it. I shall read the instructions first this time. They say I should put some grease on and just slide it in.
So I put some grease on and slide it in. I let go and it swings down and sort of hangs there, kinda lifeless and forlorn looking. Looks sort of sad, doesn't it, like it is missing it's partner.
The instructions then say I put the other side on and with a hex bolt tighten it up. There are many ways to put the other crank arm on. I shall put it pointing away from the other so it looks like most other bicycles. Much happier looking now.
There are a couple of parts left over, look like little felt washers. The instructions say they are for the pedals.
Hmm, have to dig out some pedals, sure I have some laying about, but I think I'll have a beer whilst I think about where they might be.
So I put some grease on and slide it in. I let go and it swings down and sort of hangs there, kinda lifeless and forlorn looking. Looks sort of sad, doesn't it, like it is missing it's partner.
The instructions then say I put the other side on and with a hex bolt tighten it up. There are many ways to put the other crank arm on. I shall put it pointing away from the other so it looks like most other bicycles. Much happier looking now.
There are a couple of parts left over, look like little felt washers. The instructions say they are for the pedals.
Hmm, have to dig out some pedals, sure I have some laying about, but I think I'll have a beer whilst I think about where they might be.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Installing the bottom bracket
This is a bottom bracket and bearing. It's known as an external bottom bracket. Somehow the bearings screw into that tube at the bottom, but the bearing part stays outside, hence the name external bottom bracket bearing. I reason that it screws in because of the thread on the outside of the bottom bracket bearings and the internal thread on the corresponding part, the bottom bracket.
I wonder how it comes apart, pull at it, and with a pop it falls to pieces, bits flying all over. The middle part is some plastic tube with rubber rings to act as seals. Luckily I find all the parts. Hmm, I think I found them all.
I get it to pieces. This side won't screw in at first, so I do the otherside first. I try this side again, it won't go it, keeps skipping. In desperation I try screwing it backwards to try and find the thread start. Woo hoo, it starts to screw on. I read the instructions and it tells me that English thread is counter-clockwise on this side.
I screw it on with the spacers. There is a chart in the instructions about how to place the spacers for such and such chain line. I reckon that if I put the spacers in then if it isn't correct I can always take them back out, whereas if I don't put them in then I've used up future grip on the thread needlessly. Also, if I put the spacers on then I won't need to go hunting about for them some time in the future when I've forgetten where I put them to keep them safe for if I needed them at some future point. Or, something like that.
I torque it up and it's time for another beer.
I wonder how it comes apart, pull at it, and with a pop it falls to pieces, bits flying all over. The middle part is some plastic tube with rubber rings to act as seals. Luckily I find all the parts. Hmm, I think I found them all.
I get it to pieces. This side won't screw in at first, so I do the otherside first. I try this side again, it won't go it, keeps skipping. In desperation I try screwing it backwards to try and find the thread start. Woo hoo, it starts to screw on. I read the instructions and it tells me that English thread is counter-clockwise on this side.
I screw it on with the spacers. There is a chart in the instructions about how to place the spacers for such and such chain line. I reckon that if I put the spacers in then if it isn't correct I can always take them back out, whereas if I don't put them in then I've used up future grip on the thread needlessly. Also, if I put the spacers on then I won't need to go hunting about for them some time in the future when I've forgetten where I put them to keep them safe for if I needed them at some future point. Or, something like that.
I torque it up and it's time for another beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Installing the forks
In the box where I got the headset from there are some other parts.
On reading the instructions there is a bearing thing that goes on neck of the fork.
It won't go all the way down on it's own, you need a bit of pipe, a little larger diameter than the neck of the fork so it fits over it, that you will hit with a hammer, and something so that the bearing thing doesn't go squiffy through being hit off angle.
What with a few other parts I can now put the forks on the frame.
Doesn't look quite right does it, and there are some parts left over. Think I'll put them on too. Looks much better now.
Time for another beer.
On reading the instructions there is a bearing thing that goes on neck of the fork.
It won't go all the way down on it's own, you need a bit of pipe, a little larger diameter than the neck of the fork so it fits over it, that you will hit with a hammer, and something so that the bearing thing doesn't go squiffy through being hit off angle.
What with a few other parts I can now put the forks on the frame.
Doesn't look quite right does it, and there are some parts left over. Think I'll put them on too. Looks much better now.
Time for another beer.
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Monday, November 24, 2008
Building myself a new MTB
It's snowing. Think I'll build myself a winter bicycle. I've built up quite a collection of spare parts, and wonder how far I'll get before reaching a stopper.
First off, have to find somewhere to build it. Somewhere quiet so I'm not disturbed too often. The dog's shed will do.
Clear some space, set up the stand, and install a couple of shopping bags of beer in a place close to hand, but not where I'll be tripping over it every five minutes.
Frame on the stand, installing the headset. Time for a beer. Hmm, maybe I should have read the instructions first. Why? It kinda looks right, but better safe than sorry.
More to follow...
First off, have to find somewhere to build it. Somewhere quiet so I'm not disturbed too often. The dog's shed will do.
Clear some space, set up the stand, and install a couple of shopping bags of beer in a place close to hand, but not where I'll be tripping over it every five minutes.
Frame on the stand, installing the headset. Time for a beer. Hmm, maybe I should have read the instructions first. Why? It kinda looks right, but better safe than sorry.
More to follow...
Labels: building a bicycle, cycling
Sunday, August 03, 2008
Post Danmark Rundt 2008 Result
Went out to watch the cycle race pass by. As the local stretch is in the middle of nowhere there weren't so many other spectators out there, but could see people dotted all the way down the road. As the sponsors went by they threw some goodies out, and as the peloton passed, some of the riders threw their water bottles.
There were four riders way out in front, two packs making up the peloton, and then one chap was way behind using the cycle path going for it, sure he would have caught up by the end.
So the result for the Post Danmark Rundt 2008 was:
4 water bottles
1, Zefal France
2, Slipstream Sports Chipotle Mexican Grill
3, Team Barloworld Bianchi
4, Purepower.dk
1 red clapper
7 bags of wine gums
6 boiled sweets
3 squeakers
Great fun, and one of the guys I know from my commute gave a little wave, which was nice.
There were four riders way out in front, two packs making up the peloton, and then one chap was way behind using the cycle path going for it, sure he would have caught up by the end.
So the result for the Post Danmark Rundt 2008 was:
4 water bottles
1, Zefal France
2, Slipstream Sports Chipotle Mexican Grill
3, Team Barloworld Bianchi
4, Purepower.dk
1 red clapper
7 bags of wine gums
6 boiled sweets
3 squeakers
Great fun, and one of the guys I know from my commute gave a little wave, which was nice.
Labels: cycle race, cycling
Monday, May 19, 2008
Dustcup 2008, Round 3, St. Dyrehave
Forgot to charge my GPS unit, so you'll have to make do with this GPSies track.
Did two laps, but there were some loonies, some on horses, out to cause grief by wandering back and forth on the circuit, so I packed in early. Dunno what that was about. Maybe they didn't like that there was a mountain bike race?
Pictures from Pixelution and Jens Thomasberg
Picture of me in full flow. As can be seen I got a leaf caught in the lens of my video camera, early on it so happens, so no video.
Results
Did two laps, but there were some loonies, some on horses, out to cause grief by wandering back and forth on the circuit, so I packed in early. Dunno what that was about. Maybe they didn't like that there was a mountain bike race?
Pictures from Pixelution and Jens Thomasberg
Picture of me in full flow. As can be seen I got a leaf caught in the lens of my video camera, early on it so happens, so no video.
Results
Labels: cycle race, cycling, Denmark, Dustcup, fun
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Dustcup 2008, Round 2, Tisvilde
Sunday, May 04, 2008
Rivette/SRAM H12 2008
12 hour mountain bike race in the woods up near Hareskovby.
There was a false start or something, so my first lap didn't register. Bugger.
But 6 laps did register, which is nice. Results
My GPS data log up on motionbased.
I dread to think how many laps the winner eventually did.
Pictures up on Hustlers website
Pictures from Jesper Regin
Pictures from Jens Thomasberg
Picture of my suspension modifications.
Me, happily covered in mud.
There was a false start or something, so my first lap didn't register. Bugger.
But 6 laps did register, which is nice. Results
My GPS data log up on motionbased.
I dread to think how many laps the winner eventually did.
Pictures up on Hustlers website
Pictures from Jesper Regin
Pictures from Jens Thomasberg
Picture of my suspension modifications.
Me, happily covered in mud.
Labels: cycle race, cycling, Denmark, fun
Dustcup 2008, Round 1, Geel Skov
Dustcup 2008 blog.
blog page for this race
Organised by the Dansk Mountainbike Klub
The GPS location of the carpark. Was really good way to find it.
GPSies route
My GPS track up on Motionbased
Photos by Lars Noppenau
Photos by Pixelution
Photos by Jonas Lüttichau
Photos by Michael Schrage
blog page for this race
Organised by the Dansk Mountainbike Klub
The GPS location of the carpark. Was really good way to find it.
GPSies route
My GPS track up on Motionbased
Photos by Lars Noppenau
Photos by Pixelution
Photos by Jonas Lüttichau
Photos by Michael Schrage
Labels: cycle race, cycling, Denmark, Dustcup, fun